‘Every Cook Should Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Restaurants.

When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.